Exploring the Hamakua Coast, North of Hilo, Hawaii: Hakalau Canyon

by Donald B. MacGowan

Hakalau Bay, Hamakua Coast, HawaiiL Grpahic from Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

There are many wondrous, enigmatic and fascinating attractions on the Big Island of Hawaii, some better known than others, many out of the way and generally off the beaten track.  Tour Guide Hawaii has produced an encyclopedic collection of the most up-to-date information, presented as short GPS-cued videos, in an app downloadable to iPhone and iPod Touch that covers the entire Big Island, highlighting the popular and the uncrowded, the famous and the secluded, the adventurous and the relaxing.

Hakalau Beach Park

Hahaklau Gulch Scenic Jungle Road, Hamakua Coast, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Even amidst the tranquil and idyllic rural landscape of the Big Island, it is possible to feel as if the modern hustle and bustle of life on Hawaii has all but drowned out the tranquility and beauty of the ancient paradise which is the birthright of the Hawaiian people and about which American writers such as Samuel Clemens and Robert Louis Stevenson wrote with such passion.

Hakalau Canyon Mouth and Beach; Stong currents and lethal rip tides make swimming here perilous: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Most definitely the tropical paradise you dreamed about visiting, this thick, lush jungle canyon is a stunning remnant of Old Hawai’i, leading along a rushing stream to a narrow canyon festooned with tropical blossoms, vines and palms to a sandy beach where the surf is nothing short of amazing, as are the views up and down the coast from here..

Hakalau Beach in the morning sun: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

One of the few navigable bays along this portion of the coast, but guarded by the tick jungle and immensely steep gulch, Hakalau inlet and each was a hideout for smugglers and bandits in earlier times.  The Hakalau Sugar Company built an enormous sugar mill and wharf here, which was destroyed by the tsunami of 1946-the twisted and battered remains of these structures are mute, but awe-inspiring, testament to the raw power of tsunamis.

Driving through the Old Hawaii Jungle is just one great reason to visit Hakalau Gulch on the Hamakua Coast of the Big Island: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

To reach the beach, turn off the belt highway just north of mile marker 15 and drive through old sugar fields, past the remnant of the village of Hakalau stay on the road as it narrows and turns to dirt and drive down the gulch.

The Hakalau Gulch Road is rough and definitely not for passenger vehicles.  This road goes through puddles, deep potholes and at least one point, the roadbed and creek bed are the same. Remembering that even 6 inches of rapidly flowing water can carry a car away, drive through the creek only if it is slowly flowing and the water is fewer than 8 inches deep. If the road seems impassable, or the gate is locked, simply park by the gate and walk down—it’s a short and soul-soothing walk.

Twisted and Broken ruins of Hakalau Sugar Mill and Wharf remind visitors of the unimaginable power otsumanis, Hakalau Gulch, Hamakua Coast, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

The huge bridge over the next gulch north from Hakalau has a fabulous view of two waterfalls.  Pictures of these can be taken from the bridge by parking at a small turnout on the north side and walking back across the bridge…watch carefully for traffic, this is not as safe as it seems.

Beach Sculpture at Hakalau Beach, Hamakua Coast, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Although locals surf and swim unconcernedly here, the visitor is advised to admire the water, but not go in.  Not only are the waves, currents and rip tides lethally treacherous here, but the stream mouth and murky water are prime hunting grounds of Hawai’i’s own tiger, Mano, the shark.

Once you leave the highway, there are no services along the road or at Hakalau Beach.

Hakalau Beach In the Mist, Hamakua Coast, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

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All media copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan. All rights reserved.

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